Step 1: Make the marinade: Using a vegetable peeler, remove 1 strip of orange zest, 1 strip of lime zest, and 1 strip of lemon zest and place in a nonreactive saucepan. Juice the oranges, limes, and lemon. Add the juices, the wine, cinnamon, garlic, ginger, and pepper in a nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil, uncovered, until the mixture is reduced, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely.
Step 2: Spatchcock the chickens: To do this, cut out the backbone of each bird using poultry shears. Open as you would a book, remove the breast bones, and flatten them with the palm of your hand. Tuck the wings back, and if desired, cut 1-inch slits in the loose skin between the thigh and the body and pull the chicken legs through. (This makes for a more compact shape.) Arrange the chickens in a baking dish and pour the marinade over them. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Turn 2 or 3 times to ensure even seasoning.
Step 3: Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat medium (350 degrees).
Step 4: Remove the chickens from the marinade and place on the grate, skin side up. Place a salt slab, brick, or grill press on top of each to flatten it. Grill the hens until cooked through, about 20 to 25 minutes per side, or until the internal temperature of the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165 degrees. (Reposition the salt slabs as needed.) Move the birds as needed to dodge flare-ups.
Step 5: To serve, arrange the chickens on a platter. Serve the tkemali on the side.
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Steven Raichlen’s Project Smoke is a production of Maryland Public Television, Barbacoa, Inc., and Resolution Pictures. © 2017 Barbacoa, Inc.