For what seems like a friendly pursuit—cooking hefty hunks of meat over live fire to be eaten mostly by other people—barbecue has long been besieged by controversies. Among them: Is it sacrilege to sauce brisket? Are fall-off-the-bone-tender ribs the mark of an amateur? Is brining for the birds?
Add to the list: Should you wrap meats like brisket, beef shoulder clod, pork shoulder, ribs, etc., in aluminum foil or unlined butcher paper hours into the smoke, or leave the meat “naked”?