Beef
Perfect Steak from Italy: How to Grill Bistecca Alla Fiorentina
Think of the world’s great steaks: Cowboy tomahawk. Caveman T-bone. I cast my vote and lick my lips for Italy’s great steak: Bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Picture a massive, charcoal-seared slab of beef—a glory in its primal simplicity. The irresistible mix of smoke, fire, and beef embody the essence of Tuscan grilling.
What makes Bistecca alla Fiorentina (literally Florentine porterhouse) so special? First, there’s the steer—a slow-growing, rich-flavored breed known as Chianina.
Then there’s the cut, which in English we call porterhouse. Picture a thick steak comprised of both strip steak and tenderloin, connected by the proverbial T-bone.
Of course there’s the fire: Bistecca is traditionally cooked over blazing lump charcoal.
In fact, the only unremarkable thing about Bistecca alla Fiorentina are the seasonings—or more accurately, the lack of seasonings. Most chefs use only sea salt, plus an optional splash of olive oil. The idea is to let the flavor of the beef shine through without any gustatory distractions.
Finally, there’s the doneness. In Italy, Bistecca alla Fiorentina is always served al sangue, blood rare.
In recent years, American restaurants have embraced the Italian practice of serving Bistecca pre-sliced, a departure from our whole-steak tradition. This presentation has its merits: it’s visually striking and allows for better absorption of the olive oil (should you decide to use it) into each slice. The down side is the tendency of the steak to become cold during the time it takes you to slice and arrange it.
Whether served whole or sliced, Bistecca alla Fiorentina remains a carnivore’s dream–a sanguine celebration of beef in its purest, most unadulterated form. It’s a reminder of the old adage “less is more.” Sometimes the simplest preparation yields the most extraordinary result.
How to Grill Bistecca Alla Fiorentina
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