When I was growing up, dessert at a barbecue was an afterthought. Sliced watermelon or fruit salad. Maybe pie from a local bakery. It never occurred to us to grill dessert—unless it was a marshmallow roasted over a campfire and sandwiched with graham crackers and chocolate to make that camping favorite: s’mores. How times have changed! We now grill pineapples and pound cake. We smoke-roast crumbles and crisps. We smoke apples and even ice cream. Desserts aren’t just served as barbecue: they’ve become the barbecue itself.