Step 1: Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to medium-high. Brush and oil the grill grate.

Step 2: Arrange the steaks on the grate and sprinkle the top with a quarter-inch layer of salt. Grill the steak until the bottom is darkly browned and beads of blood start to form on the top, about 5 minutes.

Step 3: Turn the steak over (some of the salt will fall into the fire-its supposed to). Sprinkle another 1/4-inch layer salt on top of the steak. Continue grilling until the bottom is again darkly browned and the steak is cooked to taste 4 to 5 minutes more for medium rare.

Step 4: Turn the steak on its side with tongs and whack it with the back of a knife to knock off the excess salt.

Step 5: To serve, transfer the steak to a cutting board and let it rest for 2 minutes. Cut the meat off the bone. (Return the bone to the fire to char it, then serve it separately.) Cut the now boneless steak crosswise and slightly on the diagonal into 1/2-inch thick strips. Serve with a well-aged Rioja.