Europe
Beer-Marinated Lamb Steaks Grilled over Herbs and Spices

I first met Peter De Clercq at SPOGA, the giant barbecue and outdoor living trade show held annually in Cologne, Germany. The next thing I knew, I was dining in his restaurant, Elckerlijc, in Maldegem, Belgium. For despite the fact that I couldn’t think of a single Belgian grilled dish—traditional or otherwise—I was convinced I would be in the hands of a master. Peter lived up to my expectations, leaving no fire unlit or meat unmarinated or unbasted in his quest to harness live fire to boost flavor. The following recipe is pure Peter: Start with traditional Belgian flavorings, like mustard and beer, then borrow a technique from a neighboring grill culture, like France (in this case, the practice of tossing dried herbs on the fire), to create a dish equally striking for its simplicity and bold flavors. Depending on the dish he is preparing, Peter might toss olive pits, grapevines, wood chips, or grilling spices on the embers: whatever it takes to create a fragrant smoke to flavor the meat.
Beer-Marinated Lamb Steaks Recipe
Beer-Marinated Lamb Steaks Grilled over Herbs and Spices
Recipe Notes
- Active Prep: At least 4 hours or as long as overnight for marinating the lamb.
- Yield: Serves 4
Ingredients
- 1-1/2 pounds lamb steaks, or 2 pounds rib lamb chops (1/2 to 3/4 inch thick)
- 1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
- 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 cup wheat beer (see Note)
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1-1/2 cups veal or beef stock, preferably homemade
- 1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream
- Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
- Fire Spices (recipe follows)
Recipe Steps
1: Arrange the lamb in a nonreactive baking dish just large enough to hold it in a single layer.
2: Place the mustard, onion, garlic, and rosemary in a mixing bowl and whisk to mix. Gradually whisk in the beer, lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Pour the marinade over the lamb, turning it a couple of times to coat. Let the lamb marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for at least 4 hours or as long as overnight; the longer it marinates, the richer the flavor will be.
3: Remove the lamb from the marinade and dry with paper towels. Place the marinade in a large heavy saucepan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Let the marinade boil until only 1/4 cup of liquid remains, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the veal stock and cream and let boil until the mustard and beer sauce is reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste; it should be highly seasoned. Strain the sauce into a bowl for serving and set it aside.
4: Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat it to high.
5: When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Brush the lamb steaks with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season them generously with salt and pepper. Toss the Fire Spices on the grill and immediately arrange the steaks on the hot grate. Grill the lamb until cooked to taste, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare, giving each steak a quarter turn after 1-1/2 minutes to create a handsome crosshatch of grill marks. Use the poke test to check for doneness.
6: Transfer the grilled lamb to a platter or plates and serve it at once with the mustard-beer sauce on the side for spooning on top.
Note: Wheat beer (witbier in Flemish; bière blanche in French) is a refreshing, mild-flavored brew made with a signifi cant percentage of malted wheat. It’s especially popular in Belgium in the spring and summer. One good brand is Hoegaarden. You could certainly substitute a weissbier from Germany or the United States.
Recipe Tips
Sub-Recipe: Fire Spices
Inspired by the Provençal practice of tossing rosemary bunches or fennel fronds on the fire when French grill jockeys grill fish, Peter De Clercq contrived a spice blend unique in the annals of grilling. It’s unique because you put the seasonings on the fire, not on the meat, which creates an aromatic smoke that subtly perfumes the food.
Here’s a homemade version of a commercial blend Peter sells in Europe. MAKES 1-1/2 CUPS
1/4 cup coriander seeds
1/4 cup juniper berries
1/4 cup dried rosemary
1/4 cup crumbled bay leaves
1/4 cup dried oregano
1/4 cup dried thyme
Combine the coriander seeds, juniper berries, rosemary, bay leaves, oregano, and thyme in a large bowl and stir to mix. Transfer the mixed spices to a 1 pint jar with a secure lid. The Fire Spices will keep stored away from heat and light for several months. To use the Fire Spices, toss a couple of handfuls directly on the coals, or on the flavorizer bars, ceramic bricks, or lava stones of a gas grill, immediately prior to putting on the meat, adding more when you turn the meat.
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