1: Using a sharp knife, score the ham in a crosshatch pattern, cutting through the skin, but not through the meat, spacing the cuts 1 1/2 inches apart. This is optional, as you’ll remove the skin anyway. But it facilitates injecting, and it sure gives the shoulder ham a cool-looking appearance.

2: Make the spice bundle: Tie the cloves, bay leaves, lemon zest, and peppercorns in a piece of cheesecloth.

3: Make the brine: Place half the water (2 1/2 quarts), the salt, brown sugar, and Prague powder #1 in a large pot and bring to a boil, stirring until the salt and sugar are dissolved.

4: Stir in the spice bundle and the remaining water (2 1/2 quarts) and let the mixture cool completely to room temperature.

5: Measure out 2 cups of the brine and place in a deep measuring cup. Place the ham in a roasting pan. Draw the brine into the injector and inject it deep into the ham all over, inserting the needle at 1 1/2-inch intervals.

6: Place the ham in a large pot, food-safe bucket, or jumbo resealable plastic bag. Add the brine (plus any brine in the roasting pan). If using a plastic bag, tightly seal, squeezing out any air, and place the bag in the roasting pan to corral any leaks. Brine the ham in the refrigerator for 3 days, turning the ham twice a day so it cures evenly.

7: Remove the ham from the brine and place it in a roasting pan. Using the marinade injector, re-inject the ham with brine, again, inserting the needle at 1-1/2-inch intervals. Continue brining the ham in the refrigerator for another 3 days, turning twice a day so it brines evenly.

8: Drain the ham in a large colander, rinse well with cold water, drain again, and blot dry with paper towels. Place the ham on a wire rack over a roasting pan and let it dry for 2 hours in the refrigerator.

9: If using wood chips, soak them in water to cover for 30 minutes, then drain. There is no need to soak wood chunks.

10: If using a charcoal grill, set it up for indirect grilling and heat it to 250 degrees. (With a kettle grill, use less charcoal than normal to obtain this low temperature.) Add wood chips (about 1 1/2 cups) or chunks (1 large or 2 medium) per hour to the embers. If using a smoker, heat it to 250 degrees following the manufacturer’s instructions.

11: Smoke the ham until handsomely browned and cooked through (the internal temperature will be about 160 degrees). This typically takes about 7 hours, but you may need more or less time depending on your ham, smoker, and the weather. Replenish the charcoal and wood as needed to maintain a light but steady stream of smoke.

12: Transfer the ham to a cutting board and let it cool for 20 minutes. Pull off the skin. (If you’re feeling ambitious, you can fry the skin in hot (350 degree) oil to make smoke-flavored cracklings.)

13: Thinly slice the ham across the grain and serve. Note: You can serve the ham hot, at room temperature, or chilled. Refrigerated, it will keep for at least a week.