Step 1: Make the brine: In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 1 quart of water and the salt, cloves, bay leaves, and peppercorns to a boil. Stir with a wooden spoon until the salt dissolves. Stir in the ice water to cool the brine quickly. Add the drumsticks to the brine (make sure they’re completely submerged) and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.
Step 2: Remove the chicken from the brine and drain well. Dry each drumstick with paper towels. Discard the brine.
Step 3: Set up the grill for smoke-roasting and preheat to medium (350 degrees). Arrange the drumsticks in a single layer in the center of the grill, flattest side down. (The outside of the drumstick will have a more rounded shape.) Divide the wood chips between the piles of coals. Cover the grill and smoke-roast the drumsticks until the skin is crisp and nicely browned and the chicken is cooked through, 45 minutes to 1 hour. The internal temperature in the thickest part of the meat should be 180 to 185 degrees. (Higher than is recommended for chicken breasts.)
Step 4: In the meantime, make the glaze: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the maple syrup and Sriracha and continue to heat until the mixture bubbles, about 5 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.
Step 5: About 10 minutes before the chicken is done, brush each drumstick on all sides with the glaze and return to the grill. (Alternatively, transfer the glaze to a tall deep container and holding the legs with tongs, dunk into the glaze.) Repeat during the last few minutes. Arrange the drumsticks on a platter and drizzle with some of the glaze. Sprinkle with the chives. Serve the remaining glaze on the side.
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Steven Raichlen’s Project Smoke is a production of Maryland Public Television, Barbacoa, Inc., and Resolution Pictures. © 2017 Barbacoa, Inc.