Step 1: Lightly score the steak(s) in a crosshatch pattern on both sides. Make the cuts 1/4 inch apart and not more than 1/8 inch deep.

Step 2: Place the steaks(s) in a large shallow bowl. Pour the wine over them and stir in the shallots, garlic, thyme, and olive oil. Marinate for 4 hours in the refrigerator.

Step 3: Drain the steak(s) in a colander over a bowl. Transfer the meat to a plate and blot dry. Reserve the veggies and wine.

Step 4: Make the sauce: Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the bacon and sauté over medium heat to render some of the fat, 2 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic from the marinade and the shiitakes and cook over medium heat until the ingredients are lightly browned, 3 minutes. Place the cornstarch in a tiny bowl, stir in 1 tablespoon of the reserved wine, and set aside. Add the reserved wine and beef stock to the shallot mixture and increase the heat to high. Boil the mixture until reduced to about 1 cup. Whisk in the cornstarch mixture: the sauce will thicken slightly. Whisk in the remaining butter and salt and pepper to taste: the sauce should be highly seasoned. Keep warm.

Step 5: Brush the steaks on both sides with oil and season generously with salt and pepper.

Step 6: Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to high. Ideally, you’ll be grilling over grapevines. Brush and oil the grill grate.

Step 7: Grill the steaks until cooked to taste—they taste best served rare or medium-rare, roughly 2 minutes per side for rare, 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to a platter or plates. Spoon the sauce over the steaks and sprinkle with the chopped fresh chives.