Step 1: Arrange the veal chops on a rimmed baking sheet. Generously season each side with salt, pepper, and chopped rosemary. Using a Microplane, grate the lemon zest over the veal chops on both sides. Drizzle 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil over the chops on both sides. Let the chops marinate while you make the basting sauce and light the grill.
Step 2: Place the other 1/4 cup olive oil in a bowl. Squeeze in the juice from the lemon and mix with a fork.
Step 3: Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to high. Brush and oil the grill grate.
Step 4: Arrange the chops on the grill running diagonal to the bars of the grate. Grill until the chops are sizzling and browned on the bottom, giving each chop a quarter turn after 2 minutes to lay on a crosshatch of grill marks. Turn the chops after 3 to 4 minutes and grill the other side the same way. After 3 minutes of grilling, brush the veal chops with the olive oil-lemon juice mixture using the tied rosemary sprigs as a basting brush. Baste often.
Step 5: Continue grilling the veal until both sides are sizzling and browned and the internal temperature is around 145 to 150 degrees F (for veal with a blush of pink in the center; go a little longer for medium veal). Alternatively, use the poke test: The veal will feel gently yielding when pressed with your finger. Total cooking time will be 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare veal; 4 to 5 minutes for medium veal.
Step 6: Transfer the veal chops to a heatproof platter and drizzle with a little more olive oil. Lay a branch of fresh rosemary on each chop. At the table, in front of your guests, light a blowtorch. Direct the flame towards the rosemary branches atop the veal. Burn until the leaves singe, releasing a fragrant rosemary smoke. Remove the rosemary with tongs before serving.
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Steven Raichlen’s Project Smoke is a production of Maryland Public Television, Barbacoa, Inc., and Resolution Pictures. © 2017 Barbacoa, Inc.