Step 1: Make one or two deep slashes to the bone in the top (the thickest part) and middle segment of each wing. Place the wings in a large nonreactive mixing bowl.
Step 2: Make the marinade: Combine the soy sauces, honey, sesame oil, rice wine, ginger, five-spice powder, pepper, and cinnamon and mix well. (I like to mix with my hands.)
Step 3: Marinate the chicken, covered, in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours, turning the pieces several times.
Step 4: Set up your grill or smoker for smoking/indirect grilling and preheat to 340 degrees (if your smoker will go that high; if not, smoke longer). Drain the chicken wings. Thread each wing on a bamboo skewer, piercing through the meatiest sections and stretching the wings out as far as possible. Arrange skin-side down on the grate over the drip pan or on the smoker racks away from the heat.
Smoke the wings until crisp-skinned, darkly browned, and cooked through, about 1 hour. Start basting the wings with the vegetable oil after 30 minutes and baste several times during cooking.
Step 5: In the meantime, combine equal parts of hoisin sauce and sriracha for serving. (Divide among 4 small bowls.)
Step 6: Serve the wings with the sauce.
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Steven Raichlen’s Project Fire is a production of Maryland Public Television, Barbacoa, Inc., and Resolution Pictures. © 2018 Barbacoa, Inc.