1: Combine the ingredients for the marinade in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the chicken wings and toss to coat. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, but preferably overnight. Turn the wings several times.

2: Set up your grill for indirect grilling and heat to 400 degrees. (Or use a smoker if your unit can maintain the higher temperatures needed to render the fat and crisp the skin.) Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it very well. (Chicken wings have a tendency to stick.)

3: Drain the wings, discarding the marinade. Arrange the chicken wings on the grate over the drip pan away from the heat. Leave a little space between each wing. Toss the wood chips on the coals (or place in the smoker box of your gas grill.) Indirect grill the wings until darkly browned and cooked through, 40 to 50 minutes depending on the size of the wings. Turn once halfway through. To check for doneness, make a slit in the thickest part of the largest drumette: There should be no traces of pink in the meat, though you might get a pink smoke ring near the bone. You can use a digital thermometer to check that the internal temperature reaches a safe 165°F.

4: In the meantime, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the hot sauce and lime juice and keep warm.

5: Transfer the chicken wings to a large shallow bowl. Pour most of the butter mixture over them and toss to mix. (Re-whisk if necessary.) Pour the remaining butter mixture on top and dust with chopped chives. Serve at once with the lime wedges and chives.