1: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Select a roasting pan large enough to hold the bones in one layer and put it in the oven to heat for 20 minutes. (Or use two pans if necessary.)

2: Add the canola oil to the pan(s) and heat for about 30 seconds. Add the bones and toss them in the oil to coat. Roast the bones, turning occasionally, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until golden brown and caramelized.

3: Transfer the bones to a large stockpot. Discard the fat in the roasting pan(s). Use a little of the water to deglaze the pan(s), scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Pour the bits and liquid into the pot with the bones. Add the remaining water and the rest of the ingredients to the pot and put the pot on one side of a burner set to medium-high (see Note, page 344). Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, skimming off any impurities that rise to the top, about 1 hour.

4: Reduce the heat to low and simmer the stock for 12 hours, continuing to skim off any impurities; add more water if necessary to keep the ingredients covered.

5: Gently ladle the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof container. Do not press down on the solids, or you will make the stock cloudy. Discard the solids. Make an ice bath in the sink with equal parts ice and water, place the container of stock in the ice bath, and leave it, stirring occasionally, until the stock is chilled, about 1 hour. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Tightly covered, the stock will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 3 months in the freezer. Remove any fat that has solidified on the top before using